Restaurant Review: Blind Pig Bistro

The little space in the Eastlake neighborhood that began as a doughnut shop, then became Matt Dillons legendary Sitka & Spruce and was later home to the sadly short-lived Nettletownwell, it sure has magic. Blind Pig Bistro, opened late last fall by chef Charles Walpole (who most recently cooked at Anchovies & Olives), continues the streak. The food inside the snug space, which sports a coat of blood-red paint and slate slabs that serve as chalkboard menus, is mostly great. Walpole hired Matt Fortner to cook by his side. The menu changes daily, depending on the seasons and the chefs moods. Two examples: hamachi popped with chiles cooled by green apple and avocado; and kale ribbons mixed with quinoa and a warm poached egg, the kind of dish you might dream up while scouring the fridge late at night and feel like a genius for creating. Its a menu by chefs for chefs: fresh, unfussy food cooked just right, such as oysters on the half shell; pate with sweet raisins, mustard and celery root for crunch; and mackerel with chorizo and turnips. With good wines by the glass and service that doesnt slacken, Blind Pig is my kind of joint. Dinner TuesdaySaturday. 2238 Eastlake Ave. E; 206.329.2744; blindpigbistro.com.