Dining: A Revival on Alki

Back in the late 90s on Capitol Hill, Cassis flourished as an intimate French bistro known for its mussels, fish soup and steak frites. Then, in 2004, owner Jef Fike closed the place. A decade later, Cassis has resurfaced on Alki Beach, of all places. Fike couldnt stay away from the business.

Next door to Cactus (tough competition on a sunny day), the entire bistro is a little slicker and more streamlined than the original, but still warm and inviting, with dark wooden tables in the small dining room. I wanted the restaurant to be beautiful, but I didnt want it to be off-putting to anybody, Fike related on the day he reopened in February. I didnt want people to walk by and go, Ooh, its too fancy. We cant eat there, especially in the summer, with the flip-flop, fanny-pack crowd.

On one visit, the place was nearly full by 6 p.m., no doubt with neighbors attracted by what was a pretty solid menu. For starters, those who snag a barstool during happy hour will be treated to complimentary hard-boiled eggs, perfectly cooked so the yolks are still soft and buttery. From the original Cassis menu, the mussels mariniere ($14) constituted a delightful first course, the mussels sitting in a light (but not light enough), flavorful broth of white wine, butter and herbs, with a nice chunk of chewy baguette perfect for sopping. Seared seafood sausage, made in house, with spring herb sabayon and pea vines ($12) may seem like a bit of a novelty item, but was superb with its spices, saltiness and fork-tenderness. My hands-down favorite dish at Cassis was a May special of radicchio-wrapped halibut with balsamic butter and salt-roasted fingerlings ($22). The fish was so soft and light and the radicchio, which could have easily been a stringy mess, was knife-tender and still had snap to the bite. Its worth mentioning that the radish salad with house fromage blanc and chives ($10) was highly recommended, but the radish slices were too thick and everything was underseasoned. It was challenging and not at all enjoyable to eat.

Chef Andy Dekle is the man in charge of the kitchen. He and Fike have reunited after working together at The Ruins, where Fike was the catering director for two years after closing Cassis, and before Dekle left to go work for The Local Vine and Portage Bay Cafe. Dekle sources locally often featuring products from West Seattle (Shipwreck honey, for example) and uses organic and grass-fed, free-range products, which is resonating with the community.

Many have said that they will avidly support us nine months of the year, but that they avoid Alki during the summer months, Fike says. I think this entire first year will be an experiment to see what does and doesnt work.

Will the new Cassis survive among the throngs of casual beachgoers on a waterside strip known for its seasonality? Upscale restaurants dont thrive in West Seattle; Beato, Spring Hill and Ovio Bistro stand as Exhibits A, B and C. But, while Cassis has some kinks to work out, it has some fine things going on. Not even a year in, its already one of the best places to dine when venturing across the bridge.

Brunch Sat.Sun., Dinner Wed.Mon. 2820 Alki Ave. SW, Seattle; 206.743.8531; cassisalki.com.