Dining: Fusion in Fremont

Youve either fallen for chef/owner Vuong Locs luxurious Vietnamese-French fusion, or youve ordered the wrong thing at his restaurants. Loc opened his first place, the French-leaning Portage, on Queen Anne in 2006, when he was 26. It closed in 2013. June, with a more Asian-leaning menu, was short-lived in Madrona, lasting about a year and a half from 2009 to 2011. Loc also operated the Pig N Whistle, an upscale bar in Greenwood, from 2008 to 2012.

Now older and wiser, Loc says he and his wife Trina are confident that Pomerol has staying power. Inside a low-profile building in Fremont, the interior is spare and modern, yet comfortable, featuring a poured concrete floor and a low ceiling with wood beams and open rafters. Wood accents soften the masculine feel, but not too much. Appropriately so, as Pomerol is more of a modern steakhouse than its namesake a wine region in southwest France would imply.

Loc was inspired by visits to Bordeaux, where he enjoyed grilled meats seasoned with global flavors, and, of course, good red wine. Here, meaty beef short ribs hang over the wood-fired grill, catching a wisp of smoke before being sliced and sauced with a sweet-sticky shallot confit. Served over creamy cauliflower puree, the dish ($26) is deeply indulgent. In a good way. Prime-grade skirt steak ($25), too, is seared on the grill, tender and deliciously paired with leeks sweetened and charred by their turn over the wood fire. A whole trout ($22$24) arrived with a sprightly winter mix of orange and fennel. Simple and quite nice. Starters werent quite as successful. In one dish, a coddled egg coated the mouth, masking the flavor of foie gras ($13), and a salad of bitter greens, roasted squash, feta and toasted hazelnuts was underdressed and incohesive ($12).

Service is warm, but it can be spotty. On one visit, our server delivered wine ($8$13/glass, a well-chosen mix from France, Oregon and Washington) after our entrees arrived. And the pace of a Pomerol meal can be a bit brisk. In such a date-friendly space, a gentler pace would be appreciated.

Dinner nightly. 127 N 36th St., Seattle; pomerolrestaurant.com; 206.632.0135