Fufu, the shared starch of West African cuisines, is a soft pillow of slightly stretchy dough from which eaters pull chunks to use as a utensil and blank canvas for spicy soups. It represents the long traditions of pounding tubers — plantain, cassava, taro, or others, depending on where and by whom — even when prepared from flour on the stove top. For the West African community in Seattle…

Each time I return, for the mortadella sandwich with whipped ricotta and “pistachio jazz” at lunch or the black garlic knots at dinner, I marvel that the massive crowds of Seattle dining scenesters have yet to find it.

Diaspora Cafe Yaupon Espresso roasts, serves, and sells yaupon, the only native North American caffeinated plant — and along with it, a message of celebrating Indigeneity. The dried green leaves, roasted, ground, and brewed like espresso, produce a drink somewhere between coffee and tea.

In a city that has long held hope for great bagels, the population is finally able to consistently expect it — and that sets the bar higher for everyone.

Among the 20 aisles of some 300 vendors selling everything from Native American beadwork to the classic flea market assortments of knickknacks and hardware, sits the Northwest’s biggest and best assortment of regional Mexican cuisine, street foods, and snacks.