bistro
L’Oursin Takes Root in the Central District
A French seafood bistro inspired by the cafes of Paris knows what it's doing
From a diner’s perspective, the only evidence that L’Oursin chef/owner JJ Proville and his team didn’t hire expensive professional designers to create his Central District restaurant’s interior is the fact that it doesn’t mirror the trends found in other new restaurants. It’s still lovely, to be sure. Instead, he says, the aesthetic—more brass chairs and…