Restaurant review: 4649 (Yoroshiku)

Opened by Keisuke Kobayashi last fall in the space that once housed Joule (before Joule moved to the Fremont Collective), 4649 is sparsely decorated, modern and well lit, with a menu focusing on the traditional foods of Hokkaido, the large northern Japanese island from which chef Kobayashi hails. Youll find expertly grilled yakitori (especially the tsukune, a tender chicken meatball thats skewered and grilled; $2.50) and ramen (the chashu pork shio ramen is quite good; $11.50). But

delve deeper to taste regional specialties such as zin gis kan (grilled lamb over sauteed veggies, $16). Its a mutton dish named for the favorite food of Genghis Khan. Kobayashi makes a good version of okonomiyaki (a savory cabbage, ginger and pork pancake, $13), but even better is the agedashi tofu, lightly fried and set in a pool of dashi, then drizzled with a creamy tuna sauce ($6). Its so good you may want to order two. Also quite good: the ruibe salad ($6.45) of thinly sliced raw beef with ponzu sauce over shredded veggies ($6.45). Service can be a little green, but its generally well informed on the menu. Next time, Ill bring a bigger group to taste even more of the menu. The name 4649 is a play on words. Said aloud in Japanese it is yon roku shi ku, which sounds a little like yoroshiku, the Japanese expression for pleased to meet you or kind regards.

Lunch and dinner TuesdaySunday. Wallingford, 1913 N 45th St.; 206.547.4649; 4649seattle.com.