Dining: Meat & Greet

Before Ethan Stowell scooped up the cute space in the Madrona neighborhood in February, it was home to a rotation of restaurants that began with Cremant, followed by June and Restaurant Bea. Stowell has brought the space full circle with Red Cow, taking a cue from the French bistro that started it all.
Steak, six different cuts ranging from a $22 hanger steak to an $80 bone-in rib-eye for (at least) two, with four different sauces to chose from, are the main attraction here, but they dont overshadow the rest of the menu in any way.

The charcuterie plate was a standout on several visits. Chef Thom Koschwanez, who was previously in Washington, D.C., working at Central Michel Richard before becoming a roving chef for Stowells company, gets credit for the wonderful, well-seasoned selection ($8 each, 3/$18, 5/$25). Theyre all good, but I would never begin a meal here without the pate de campagne, a rustic, coarsely textured terrine that pairs perfectly with the house-made mustards and toast that accompany the meat platters.

The other things that should be required ordering on this meat-heavy menu are the frisee and bacon salad with a poached duck egga classic salade Lyonnaise ($12)along with the Little Gem lettuce salad ($10), a solid, bright steakhouse salad with green beans and champagne dressing. Both dishes pair nicely with any of the steaks, the most popular and least expensive of which is the hanger. But my money is on the rib-eye. Its a really tender, well-salted and well-cooked piece of meat made even more memorable with a side of horseradish cream although the other available sauces (Bearnaise, compound butter and red wine reduction) are all qualified players.

Red Cows house-made fries ($6), which dont automatically accompany the steaks, are truly great and, according to Stowell, not to be taken for granted. I realize having really good fries at a large level is hard. Theres a reason Thomas Keller buys frozen fries [for famed Bouchon in Napa Valley].

Stowell reports that restaurant staffers regularly see people who come in twice a week for the Red Cow burger ($16) and others who drop in twice a week just to hang out at the bar. Its a niche that hasnt been filled consistently in this location, and its too soon to know if Stowell will be the one to fill it permanently. Check in with me in 10 years, he says. I think [the customers] feel like well be around. And I think that they like that.

Dinner Daily. 1423 34th Ave., Seattle; 206.454.7932.
ethanstowellrestaurants.com/locations/red-cow.