Dining: Omega Ouzeri

Those who have eaten at either of Thomas Soukakos two Vios Cafes in Seattle can attest to the warm welcome and genuine family-friendly attitude of the staff. Through the years, it has often been Soukakos himself greeting patrons, offering sweet relief in the form of a glass of wine as they waited for a table, and showing small children to the little play area in the back.

As Soukakos own young son, Alexander, outgrew Vios, so did his parents friends and their kids. The result is Omega Ouzeri, an airy, sophisticated space on Capitol Hill, where white walls set off hand-painted blue and white tiles and sturdy chairs are painted the brilliant azure of the Greek flag.

Well-behaved children are still welcome, but Omegas atmosphere leans more toward date nights and groups of well-heeled friends toasting occasions with ouzo and cocktails, all of which incorporate traditional Greek liqueurs. I suggest the Mastiha Dream, with gin, cucumber, lemon and mastiha, an herbal, licorice-flavored liqueur, but the staff is happy to introduce newbies to ouzo and tsipouro (a Greek brandy).

Mezethes small plates in the $6$14 range designed for sharing dominate the menu. Among them are saganaki, a griddled cheese with fig and mavrodafni (Greek fortified wine) sauce ($10); tender dolmathes in a buttery avgolemono sauce ($10); and superb grilled octopus charred perfectly, fork tender in a sweet-hot goat horn chile vinaigrette ($14). Weekly specials such as an aromatic braised lamb stew on one of my visits are worthy of special consideration, and do opt to share one of the three platters on offer. The chicken gyro plate ($20) was outstanding, the meat grilled to a moist finish and served with a chunky tzatziki sauce, crisp herby fries, a side Greek salad and warm, pliant pita. Leave without ordering the Greek doughnuts (loukamades, $9) in a gently spiced honey syrup and you leave a fool.

Omega Ouzeri. Capitol Hill, 1529 14th Ave.; 206.257.4515;
omegaouzeri.com.