Wine: Through the Grapevine

By Paul Zitarelli April 27, 2015

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After cool-weather vintages in 2010 and 2011, the next three summers in Washington wine country were hot, hotter and hottest. Most of the red wines released this year will come from 2012 or 2013, so we can expect bottles with plenty of plush, silky fruit. The extra yum factor will be welcome after the harder-edged wines from cooler years.

Meanwhile, one of the greatest trends in recent summers has been the proliferation of dry, crisp, local roses, released in springtime and sold out before Labor Day, their beauty due in part to their ephemeral nature. There are now stalwart Washington roses that deliver the goods year in and year out (versions from Syncline, Tranche Cellars and Renegade come immediately to mind), but some terrific wineries are only now getting into the pink game.

Best New Hot Red
2012 SOUTHARD SYRAH, COLUMBIA VALLEY ($15)
Scott Southards eponymous winery in out-of-the-way Selah has flown well under the radar despite a string of beautiful, well-priced wines. His syrah offers a lot of character for the price a fine example of the generous nature of the 2012 vintage. It is a 50/50 blend of fruit from Lawrence Vineyards, a high-elevation site on the Royal Slope, and StoneTree Vineyard, a warm site at the top of the Wahluke Slope. The balance between the two is pinpoint: StoneTree ripeness and jam married to Lawrence savories and meats. Pair with: A to-go cheeseburger from Uneeda Burger after a busy workday.
southardwinery.com

The Most Anticipated New Rose
2014 SEVEN HILLS DRY ROSE ($17)
In the spring of 2014, Walla Wallas Seven Hills Winery released its first-ever commercial rose (from the 2013 vintage), a micro-production release from a classic Washington winery. It was delicious, it was scarce and it predictably disappeared immediately upon release. This spring, Seven Hills returns with its sophomore effort, and if last years version is any indication, expect something juicy, vibrant and seductive. Pair with: Any of the finfish that dot summer menus at Seattle restaurants.
sevenhillswinery.com

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