Dining: Argodolce

The potted tree, jeweled with hundreds of the tiniest white lights, still anchors the sunny dining room that once housed 35th Street Bistro and, before that, the inimitable Still Life Cafe in Seattles Fremont neighborhood. But theres a loungier effect to Agrodolce, the latest from chef Maria Hines (Tilth, Golden Beetle), especially after dark, when chandeliers cast a soft glow, helped along by candles on tabletops and jewel-toned oil paintings punching some color into the neutral-tone surroundings. The menu, as at all of Hiness restaurants, is certified organic. Its also nominally Sicilian and there are quite perfect arancini ($8) on offer as proof: The fried balls of rice melt when bitten into, their insides filled with rich braised beef. The restaurant is more generally Italian (agrodolce means sour/sweet), and there are sweet spotsa plate of thinly sliced, house-cured pork tenderloin ($7)and sour notes, the worst being an off-kilter rabbit cacciatore riddled with chewy sundried tomato segments and overwhelmed by marjoram ($22). Better: a slightly overdone risotto redeemed by tender fish and impeccably prepared mussels ($24). The surprising highlight, however, is the cocktail menu, created by general manager Aaron Robinson. His list is solid all the way through, though I especially liked the Lame Duck, a blend of lightly smoky reposado tequila, Carpano Antica sweet vermouth and Cointreau with a flamed orange peel ($11). Its like a margarita with a little mystery. That plate of cured pork loin and those arancini are swell alongside.

Brunch Saturday and Sunday, lunch and dinner daily. 709 N 35th St., Seattle; 206.547.9707; agrodolcerestaurant.net.